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And so it begins...
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Although I had sworn off driving to Michigan after the trip from hell a year
or so ago, for our upcoming sojourn — to include a few days in the Upper
Peninsula — Brugger and I would be joined by regular traveling companions
Terry & Beth. Therefore, we decided that, since could split up driving
duties and the road construction that so complicated the last road trip would
be mostly done, a road trip it would be. As with my first trip to Michigan
back in 2014, prior to leaving, we ran the Jeff Daniels' brilliantly nutzo
Escanaba in da Moonlight
(2001), this time introducing Terry & Beth to the film. We figure it went
over exceedingly well because Beth had to change her pants afterward.
Sunday, September 22, 2024: Aaaand...We're Off!Ms. B. and I mounted up and left Martinsville bright and early (more
like foggy and early), bound for Terry & Beth's place in Kernersville, a
little over an hour away. Since they have a much larger automobile than either
Ms. B. or I, they offered to provide the transportation. So, at 9:00 a.m.
sharp, we set out for Dayton, Ohio — Beth's old stomping grounds — where we
planned to spend the night in a bed & breakfast and have dinner with some
of her relatives. It was a scorching hot day, but the roughly eight-hour trip,
which included a handful of rest/geocaching stops and a fair lunch at a
TGI Fridays
somewhere near Charleston, West Virginia, was comfortable enough in our fully
loaded chariot. We pulled into our lodgings, right across from
Wright-Patterson Air Force Base/Museum, at 5:00 p.m.
Soon afterward, Beth's aunt and two of her cousins,
whom she hadn't seen in a long while, came to visit, and we had a big honking
pizza dinner from nearby
Joe's Pizzeria. It was fairly late when the party broke up, but Kim and I decided to take a
late-night walk down the road about a mile and pick up a geocache — which
turned out to be good, scaly fun (see the photo).
Monday, September 23, 2024: Are We There Yet?
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Front yard view from our B&B
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At "This Is Not an Underground Entrance"
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Terry and I rose early and went out to hunt a nearby geocache — called "
This Is Not an Underground Entrance" (
GC9J294) — hidden at the edge of Wright-Patterson Airbase. A very cool location it
was: a metal stairway that led down to a heavy door set into a concrete column
at the edge of the Mad River. Unfortunately, we couldn't find the damned
cache, and there's every indication it's missing. Alas! Still, we enjoyed the
hunt.
Again, we loaded up and hit the road. Somewhere in central
Ohio, we found a
Frisch's Big Boy
restaurant for a late-morning breakfast. I've gotta tell you — I was damned
hungry, and the scrambled eggs, bacon, & pancake combination struck me as
the best cheap-ass breakfast I've had since our massively memorable
IHOP outing
in Seattle
last year
when we went to the Pacific Northwest prior to our Alaska Cruise. This one set
me to hollering, I can tell you.
We drove for another while, and
some of our party decided that a winery visit seemed in order. We discovered
one not too far off the beaten track, which turned out to be a lovely little
place, with great atmosphere and friendly service. For that reason, I'll not
identify it because the wine was piss. I've only been to one winery whose
product was
that bad, and that was a few years ago in North
Carolina. I'm not sure that little enterprise is even around anymore. Still,
today, we did have an honest-to-Yog good time. I also found a cool cache in
neat little town nearby, as well as a seminary building that so resembled
Lychhurst Hospital in the upcoming anthology,
Hospital of Haunts, which features my story, "Insensate," that I had to stop and take
pictures.
We drove, cached, and made pit stops here and there for
several more hours, and we arrived at Kim's parents' place in Midland around
8:00 p.m. After introducing them to Terry & Beth and socializing for a
while, our foursome headed to
Meijer (a sacred
Midland tradition) to pick up foodz for dinner and provisions for our stay in
the UP, set to begin early the next day.
Then...bedtime!
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Ms. B. having a Moment With Monet
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So, the wine wasn't good, but the time we had was.
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Is it Lychhurst???
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Tuesday, September 24, 2024: Clare, Kitch-iti-kipi, and IshpemingWe wasted no time in Midland this morning and hit the road fairly early.
Our first stop was Clare, the town where Brugger was born, about 30 miles west
of Midland. Clare is the home of
Cops & Donuts, which, to my mind, has the best donuts of any donut place I've ever been.
We've visited Clare numerous times, and I've found most of the caches nearby,
but I did manage to snag a few stages of a newish Adventure Lab Cache in the
downtown area.
Beth wanted some food more substantial than donuts, so
we ended up at the nearby
Herrick House & Mulberry Cafe, a quaint little place with decent sandwiches. I destroyed a double-bacon BLT.
Once done there, we set out on the road, only to detour to a little town called
Harrison so Terry & Beth could check out a particular cannabis dispensary.
Computer issues at the shop prolonged their checkout process for quite a long
while, so we were much later than expected getting back on the road.
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Herrick House & Mulberry Cafe in Clare
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It was another day spent mostly in the car. Once across the Mackinac Bridge,
our next destination was Kitch-iti-kipi, a picturesque spring a few hours
west. Kimberly and I had visited there a couple of years ago, and I do love
the location. We arrived fairly late in the day, and most of the crowd had
vanished, so we were able to enjoy our raft ride out to the far end of the
spring without any hustle and bustle. I'd found a physical cache there on our
previous visit, and I was pleased to see that it was still in place. In
addition to that, there is now an EarthCache at the location. There's no
physical container to find at an EarthCache; one answers questions about the
geology of a particular location to get credit for the cache.
We
stopped for dinner at a pub in the little berg of Rapid River, where I
polished off some walleye, and, afterward, I found a nearby cache. Then, once
again, we were off, and around 8:00 p.m. — considerably later than we had
originally anticipated — we arrived at our domicile for the next few days: a
comfortable bed & breakfast in the town of Ishpeming, a few miles west of
Marquette. There was nothing for it but to mellow out for the rest of the
evening, so we mellowed.
Tomorrow is another day. Our target: the
city of Marquette.
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Old Rodan with the raft in the background at Kitch-iti-kipi
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The view down from the raft, with happy fish circling the bubbling
spring below
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A view from the deck of the raft. Many ducks in evidence.
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The Usual Suspects at the Rapid River Pub
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I quite appreciate the decor at our VRBO. This happy fellow lurks
just outside the bedroom door.
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Wednesday, September 25, 2024: Into Marquette
Our lodgings in Ishpeming are stylish and comfortable. From the outside, we
weren't expecting much — Ishpeming was once a mining town, and it looks like
one — but inside the house, the decor is nautical but very modern. Our
proprietor set up the kitchen so we are hardly lacking for anything,
supply-wise. So we're giving top marks for this VRBO.
There's a greenway near here called the
Iron Ore Heritage Trail, so I set out on it bright and early to hunt a couple of geocaches. One I
found, one I did not, though not unexpectedly, as the previous hunter
indicated in his log that he couldn't find it either. I didn't go all that far
— just about a mile — because we're heading into Marquette this morning, and
my time was a little limited. But if I have a chance, I'd like to venture
farther, especially since there are several more caches within hiking
distance.
Mid-morning, we hit the road, target Marquette. However,
beforehand, Brugger and Beth wanted to visit a nearby rock shop, where —
coincidentally — there is what's known as the "Yooper Tourist Trap," the site
of a virtual geocache. So, while the rest of the party went rock hunting, I
wandered among the myriad, mostly humorous displays of the Yooper Tourist
Trap, gathering info for the virtual cache.
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One of the big boulder formations (and Ground Zero for a geocache)
at Presque Isle Park
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Done at last, we piled back into the vehicle and set out
for Marquette, about thirty minutes down the road. Lunch was calling, so we
went to
Iron Bay Restaurant, which, on my first visit with Brugger to Marquette back in 2014, had been a
different establishment called L'Attitude. It was good then, and maybe better
now. I had some fantastic whitefish chowder and a hefty chopped salad, along
with an excellent local IPA. We had a nice view of the bay and the iron ore
dock located a very short distance from the restaurant. Once done with chow,
our group split up; the ladies went shopping, Terry went in search of coffee,
and I set out after a couple of caches. An officer of the law appeared to take
some interest in my surreptitious activities, but he didn't bother to call on
me, thus sparing me the chore of educating him on the joys of the cache. I
finished up my deliciously clandestine endeavor and then met Terry at a nearby
coffee shop. Eventually, the four of us reunited and trucked out to
Presque Isle Park, an extensive natural area just north of town. Here, we went wandering (and
one of us went caching) among the
Black Rocks, a massive rock formation overlooking Lake Superior from the park. Brugger
and I had done a some exploring and caching at Black Rocks on our first trip
to Michigan in 2014, but this time, we had a bit more time and got to
experience considerably more of the area. What a fantastic, scenic location it
is. And, happily, my geocaching venture proved successful.
All this
activity took up the better part of the afternoon, so, once done, we headed
back into Marquette proper and visited a nice wine bar called
Zephyr. A couple of bottles of wine, one Italian, one Spanish, forced us to drink
them. We didn't mind obliging them. Then we hunted and killed dinner at the
Portside Inn, which was somewhat less healthy than lunch (I had a very spicy, very
large, Chicago-style Italian beef sandwich). Yummo.
By the end of
dinner, we all felt fat, dumb, and happy, so we headed back to our lodgings in
Ishpeming and mellowed until bedtime.
Mellow good.
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Iron ore dock in Marquette
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A view of Black Rocks at Presque Isle Park
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Marquette Harbor Lighthouse
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Thursday, September 26, 2024: Munising & Pictured Rocks
On our previous sojourns in the UP, Brugger and I have stayed in the little
town of Munising, along the shores of Lake Superior. Of all the places we've
visited in the UP, Munising seems unique, with a significant quirk factor that
makes me think of
Twin Peaks. Today, we set out for a day trip to Munising, our first objective being a
boat tour of
Pictured Rocks, a line of colorful sandstone cliffs that rise above the lake. Ms. B. and I
have visited Pictured Rocks on foot — most notably
Chapel Rock, which is one of the lake's most notable features (see
"Midland and More in da Moonlight," October 5, 2014).
Once in Munising, we went straight to the dock, and it wasn't
long before we had boarded the double-decker catamaran, called "Spray Falls." I
might mention here that my
Ameri-Scares novel,
Michigan: The Dragon of Lake Superior
(a signed copy of which now resides on the shelf at our Marquette bed &
breakfast), opens with said dragon sinking a tour boat out of Munising. My
friends got on the boat anyway. We were underway very shortly, and the boat
proceeded northeastward at a fair clip, skirting the coastline, giving us
excellent views of the cliffs, some of which rise 200-some feet above Superior's
surface. The series of photos below can only hint at the cliffs' awesome size
and multi-colored rock faces. The only incident to mar a perfect outing was Beth
taking a spill on the gangway on her way off the boat. She doesn't appear to be
seriously hurt, but she did take a bit of a battering.
Here's a
little gallery of photographs from Pictured Rocks.
After the boat tour, we ventured over to the nearby town of Christmas, where we
killed a late lunch at The Duck Pond, a nice UP pub where you can get fresh
whitefish for dinner that was still swimming in the lake that morning. Mine was
delicious. I had a couple of local brews to accompany, one of which was
fabulous, the other not so much.
Since Beth wasn't feeling up to a
more difficult trek, we drove back to Munising to visit
Wagner Falls, which isn't as huge or as spectacular as many of the waterfalls in the area,
but it's still very scenic, and there was a cache along the trail, which I
snagged as we made our short hike.
Our last stop was
Muldoon's Pasties & Gifts, on Highway 28 just at the western edge of town. Pasties, you must know, are
the official food of the UP, at least in our book. (You should watch Jeff
Daniels' quirky
Escanaba in da Moonlight
(2001) for a better understanding of this point.) We picked up a bunch to bring
back to our VRBO for dinner. Mmm.
L) Ms. B. always did like men with a full head (and body) of hair; R:)
Wagner Falls
Friday, September 26, 2024: Mackinac Island
For all her years living in Michigan, Ms. B. had never gone to Mackinac Island,
in Lake Huron, a few miles east of the Mackinaw Bridge, which connects
Michigan's upper and lower peninsulas. The island isn't very large, but it has a
long, colorful history. To film buffs, it may be best known for having been the
setting of the film,
Somewhere in Time
(1980), particularly the
Grand Hotel, which dominates a fair portion of the island's southern bluffs. The sprawling
Fort Mackinac, built by the British in the Revolutionary War, is another
prominent, imposing feature on the island.
The island is also loaded
with geocaches.
We left our Ishpeming lodgings much earlier than any
of our somewhat travel-weary bodies felt was at all fair, but we figured we'd
better if we hoped to spend much quality time on the island. It was a
three-and-a-half-hour drive to Mackinac City, and a twenty-minute ferry ride to
our destination, so by the time we set foot on the island, we were plenty ready
to have lunch. Somewhat randomly, we chose a spot called
The Pink Pony, where I killed another very fine whitefish sandwich (in the UP, whitefish is
THE thing, don't you know). We decided to take a private carriage ride around
the island at 3:30 p.m., so that gave us a couple of hours to split up and do
our own things. Terry sought drink, Beth and Brugger sought shopping, and I
sought caches. And what a goldmine. There were numerous Adventure Labs,
traditional caches, and virtual caches, so I availed myself of any of these that
I could find nearby. Most were nicely done, and several took me to some
extra-lovely locations I might not have otherwise found, including the gazebo
from
Somewhere in Time. I've always been very fond of this film, and now
Ms. B. and I are going to have to work it into our already crowded Halloween
movie line-up. Not that it's really a Halloween film, but we'd like to see it
again while our memories of Mackinac Island are still fresh.
At 3:30,
we gathered near the
Mackinac Island State Park Visitor Center
to meet our carriage. Our driver was a loquacious character named Brett, and we
enjoyed the hell out of his lively, humor-filled narration as he took us on a
fairly extensive, hour-long tour of some the island's most historic sites. He
even helped me figure out a stage to a nearby Adventure Lab cache. Along with my
personal, private tour of the island while geocaching, I found the carriage ride
among my favorite experiences on this trip thus far.
No carriage ride
is complete without ice cream at the end, and there happened to be an ice cream
shop nearby. So we had ice cream. Damned good ice cream. We did.
We
opted to have final drinks at a tavern called the Gate House, near the Grand
Hotel. The drinks were excellent, but ridiculously expensive. This we expected,
given the location, but that does not mean we approved. We did not approve.
The
final ferry back to the Mackinac City left at 7:30, so we made tracks to get
back to the dock. Once back on the mainland, we found a nearby place called
Nonna Lisa's Italian Ristorante, and since we had about hit the burger-sandwich-tavern-food wall, we decided
to give it a try. The interior of the place looked more like a Yooper hunting
lodge than an Italian restaurant, but it simply added character. Their wine
selection was somewhat wanting, though, so most of us drank water for dinner.
Both Kimberly and went with the traditional spaghetti with meatballs, which was
decent, if not remarkable. Our server was excellent, I will say, so top marks
for him.
Our accommodations for the night were in Cheboygan, a little
town about twenty miles east of Mackinac City. We had chosen this location
mainly for its attractive price, and it was, correspondingly, a bit cramped.
However, we found it clean, generally comfortable, and well-appointed, so the
place gets a solid thumbs-up from us.
Tomorrow... we return to
Midland.
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Fort Mackinac, which looks down on the bay from the island's highest
southern bluffs
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At the gazebo from Somewhere in Time
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The Grand Hotel
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Looking down on the bay from the island's bluffs
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One of the many mansions situated along the island's highest ridge
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The Mackinaw Bridge, viewed from our ferry as we returned to Mackinaw
City
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"Road Trip! Ishpeming or Bust! (Part 2)"